Menu
22-Sep-2016, 09:45 AM (This post was last modified: 24-Sep-2016, 11:35 AM by Tom BD Bad.)
Hi guys back with another link to, probably, ancient stuff. I have my shopping cart pretty much full, but of course banggood don't have stock of the E010 batteries I need so I have been looking for alternatives. I looked at the beeductrix 205mah batteries which look very cool but shipping to me here in South Africa doesn't come cheap... so looking for other options I stumbled upon these on aliexpress for a syma S107 heli.
1s (3.7v) 240mah 30c and apparently they weigh in at only 5.8g!
Obviously the connectors need to be replaced but what do you guys think?
$14 for 10 is a pretty price too!
1s (3.7v) 240mah 30c and apparently they weigh in at only 5.8g!
Obviously the connectors need to be replaced but what do you guys think?
$14 for 10 is a pretty price too!
Jul 17, 2017 - Upgraded motors can make your Blade Inductrix Tiny Whoop FPV. You were to add 19,000Kv motors, you would get bad oscillation which is. Check out the proper way to install them in our Inductrix Tiny Whoop Mod Guide. Can (or at least something that you're comfortable flying and can become familiar with) so you can more easily tell the difference. After having done that the game's physics do a good job of showing you what effect trying different props, motors, etc, have on the flight characteristics.
Tiny Whoop or Tiny won’t?
There seem to be a lot of folks waiting for an Eachine Turbine QX70 in the mail this week. I got a batch in on Monday and I thought I would share my impressions and the fixes I located and come up with to make the QX70 more flyable. Others have had their models longer over at RCgroups.com, and some of these notes are derived from the work and contributions there, I will do my best to give credit and link directly where possible.
Why did I purchase a batch? 6 friends and I have decided to get into fpv together. We each got a decent receiver, headset, this drone, batteries, chargers etc, for $173, which is the subject of a future post.
Why the QX70? At the end of the day it’s an All-in-one Seriously pro EVO F3 flight controller (AIO SP EVO F3 FC) with the tiniest AIO Video transmitter (VTX) I have seen; it also has an affordable upgrade path to the rakonheli 7mm motor/40mm rotor CNC aluminum & CF frame(or any other whoop frame with the motors to match). It does this for ~$60 while providing a tunable FC in Cleanflight or Betaflight.
The box is a standard affair with line art, nothing full color or flashy like the E010 box.
WHATS IN THE BOX?!?
1x 600mah 3.7v lipo (packaged in the battery holder)
4x extra props(2xccw,2xcw – no A/B marking)
1x prop removal tool (loosely packed, found several magnetized to motors)
1x charger (Happymodel, no output or input value indications)
1x usb charging cable
1x Manual (A pretty decent and complete number by eachine standards)
1x Eachine QX70 completely assembled, (disassembly required)
4x extra props(2xccw,2xcw – no A/B marking)
1x prop removal tool (loosely packed, found several magnetized to motors)
1x charger (Happymodel, no output or input value indications)
1x usb charging cable
1x Manual (A pretty decent and complete number by eachine standards)
1x Eachine QX70 completely assembled, (disassembly required)
Consisting of:
-4x 40mm props
-4x 8x20mm coreless brushed motors
-1 Molded Frame(awful yellow)
-1 AIO VTX
-1 AIO FC (I chose the Flysky rx)
-4x 40mm props
-4x 8x20mm coreless brushed motors
-1 Molded Frame(awful yellow)
-1 AIO VTX
-1 AIO FC (I chose the Flysky rx)
Initial impressions – First gen, Rough finish:
Familiar with Eachine products, I was immediately a little surprised by the lack of finesse in the finish of the quad. The soldering of individual components is passable, however the VTX power lead’s soldier points at the FC are bare and without the ‘hot snot’ strain relief you see on the back of the VTX itself. Keep in mind the box it is shipped in will only be good for storage as long you don’t permanently affix your VTX; it comes soldered, though loose from the frame. Find a rubber band to stretch over the VTX and attach to the included frame points if you plan on not locating another storage solution.
Want it too fit in the box and be attached? Try performing a mullet mod on the vtx, just be careful as these are delicate electronics. You will need a 3D printer as well.
Further inspection revealed that the factory assembly configuration pushes the FC out of alignment from the frame, which is the opposite of good. The battery interferes with the programming port at the nose of the drone and the battery leads from the FC push against the Airframe where they pass beneath it at the tail.
The frame itself is rough from a crappy injection mold. There are lots of injection seams to be found and extra lines in the frame, you don’t see in the line art. This is not the same quality as the frame for the Eachine E010 (Horizon inductrix clone). I do hope they get new molds soon, I ordered several extra frames and they look to be of the same quality.
Binding for the first time:
Start by removing the VTX mount.
(keep track of those screws, extras are not included)
I did a little dance of frustration with this revelation as the bind button should be accessible and not under a screw attached component. Ah rev 1 at its best. I First attempted to bind it to my Turnigy 9x(ER9X firmware w/stock RX9XV2 module*) and discovered that out of the six I had been sent, one was incorrectly an FRsky model(it is in the title photo, excitement can make you blind). Once I was looking at the right drone(30 mins of frustration later), it was a simple task of unscrewing that vtx mount to access the bind button and pair my transmitter. Incidentally it does not work exactly as described in the manual; once the drone is bound the bind led will immediately begin flashing, rather than lighting solid as the directions indicate. Follow the standard Flysky** bind procedure and you should not get in much trouble.
You will also need to setup channel 5 within your Radio Transmitters configuration as a switch for arming and disarming the drone.
You will also need to setup channel 5 within your Radio Transmitters configuration as a switch for arming and disarming the drone.
First Flight:
Ready to fly and having read the long thread over at RCGroups(thanks all), I was prepared for the strange whine of the QX70 and the accompanying rattle on its maiden flight. Sluggish and full of vibrations, it’s pretty noisy and sloppy without adjustment. I am sure the thought, “Crap I Just got a 50 dollar lemon” is surfacing at the moement. Don’t fret, that is only what I am going to call my (ugly yellow) drone.
So if not a lemon what do we have? The answer is an “alright drone” struggling under the weight of bad casting lines, imbalanced props and poor first rev assembly. It only takesabout 30-60mins of work, depending on skill, to make a decent flyer out of it.
Take a deep breath, go read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance; back? This is an unexexpected opportunity to immerse one’s self in what might be a new hobby this holiday season. I chose to fly mine before adjustment so I would understand how much difference the next few steps make for this drone in action. It also introduces you to tuning props, Proper installation of components and my favorite, customization.
In short, we are going to sand the inside surfaces of the EDF cans, balance the props and correct the installation of the FC so that it aligns level with the frame for the sake of accelerometer calibration.
In short, we are going to sand the inside surfaces of the EDF cans, balance the props and correct the installation of the FC so that it aligns level with the frame for the sake of accelerometer calibration.
Steps to protect your investment/what I did to make it flyable:
1.Sand the protrusions off the interior of the Duct cans:
A. Mark the props with a pencil for easy recognition (most decent props are marked A or B from factory to indicate CW/CCW), they are matched diagonally. I may have labled them in reverse In a hurry.
B. Remove the props with the included removal tool. hold the motor in one hand, prying with the tool in the other between the motor house and the base of the prop. Set these aside.
C. Being careful to only remove the protrusions, sand the inside of the EDF cans to remove the cast lines where the Motor mount struts protrude from the can(Circled below). With 3 struts on each can and 4 cans, that’s 12 total to sand off. There are also 16 visible mold injections tabs that are at the 4 cardinal points(NSEW) of each Duct can.
A. Mark the props with a pencil for easy recognition (most decent props are marked A or B from factory to indicate CW/CCW), they are matched diagonally. I may have labled them in reverse In a hurry.
B. Remove the props with the included removal tool. hold the motor in one hand, prying with the tool in the other between the motor house and the base of the prop. Set these aside.
C. Being careful to only remove the protrusions, sand the inside of the EDF cans to remove the cast lines where the Motor mount struts protrude from the can(Circled below). With 3 struts on each can and 4 cans, that’s 12 total to sand off. There are also 16 visible mold injections tabs that are at the 4 cardinal points(NSEW) of each Duct can.
2.Prop Balancing: They are off the drone already, right?
Balance the props removing material only from the top of the prop blade. I snipped the tip off a needle that slid freely into the prop and followed the helpful instruction from Youtube user Black Turbine (sourced from the RCgroups forum)which was shared in the RC groups thread.
Balance the props removing material only from the top of the prop blade. I snipped the tip off a needle that slid freely into the prop and followed the helpful instruction from Youtube user Black Turbine (sourced from the RCgroups forum)which was shared in the RC groups thread.
3. Reposition the FC(install it correctly):
A. remove the VTX mount and set aside.
B.Gently slide the FC off the mounting posts, extracting the battery cable from traveling below the airframe at the tail.
C.Remove the rubber shock mounts from the top of the FC and reinstall them so the long end extends from the bottom of the FC (a set of tweezers or hemostats will help here).
D.Gently slide the FC, with re-oriented shock mounts, back in position on the frames mounting posts. Make sure the battery cable now travels above the frame.
B.Gently slide the FC off the mounting posts, extracting the battery cable from traveling below the airframe at the tail.
C.Remove the rubber shock mounts from the top of the FC and reinstall them so the long end extends from the bottom of the FC (a set of tweezers or hemostats will help here).
D.Gently slide the FC, with re-oriented shock mounts, back in position on the frames mounting posts. Make sure the battery cable now travels above the frame.
(On the left: reassembled QX70 and to its right the stock position of the fc. )
This provides clearance from the battery below, better positioning of the ride of the VTX mount on the FC and prevents the battery leads soldered to the FC from forcing it out of alignment from the Airframe.
3.Modify the VTX mount to access the Bind button:
I filed out a relief in the horizontal section of the VTX mount to make the button accessible and prevent it from interfering with the ride of the VTX over the newly repositioned positioned FC. With a little luck, you will only bind your drone once, but why take it apart ever again just for this reason?
I filed out a relief in the horizontal section of the VTX mount to make the button accessible and prevent it from interfering with the ride of the VTX over the newly repositioned positioned FC. With a little luck, you will only bind your drone once, but why take it apart ever again just for this reason?
Once the relief is filed, re-install the VTX mount with the provided screws, which if you were not like me are secured somewhere safely. Again, extras are not provided.
4. Remove the light:
Desolder it, detach it, or get creative with the positioning the led strip behind the camera with some hot glue. IMHO It is dead weight, tacticool at best and the stock installation position reinforces the frame in less than positive ways.
Desolder it, detach it, or get creative with the positioning the led strip behind the camera with some hot glue. IMHO It is dead weight, tacticool at best and the stock installation position reinforces the frame in less than positive ways.
Note: I discovered this after trashing a frame (the Split duct you see in some photos).
DONE. Have fun flying your much improved QX70
Final Thoughts:
While not perfect, once you have made these mods and corrections, your QX70 will be much more satisfying. Is it the end-all, be-all solution to micro quads? Nope. Is it a great avenue to acquire some equipment and experience through? Absolutely. I have purchased 7 for an FPV Club some friends and I are starting, and I do not think we have any reason to be disappointed.
While not perfect, once you have made these mods and corrections, your QX70 will be much more satisfying. Is it the end-all, be-all solution to micro quads? Nope. Is it a great avenue to acquire some equipment and experience through? Absolutely. I have purchased 7 for an FPV Club some friends and I are starting, and I do not think we have any reason to be disappointed.
For reference I also own a nano qx fpv($50 on ebay with VTX, I was lucky, the acro mode leaves a bit to be desired), an eachine e010 whoop clone(from banggood, you will have to get new motors, tri blade props, and a separate vtx, plus transmitter options are limited), and have constructed a couple of 3d printed options off of thingiverse(folding pocket quad and the FirefloV3) which used Hubsan h107 internals and motors. Of those, I have to say the QX70 feels like the platform I will fly the most. It definitely has the only flight controller with versatility for a developing pilot as well.
For the future of this platform and pilots who may not be as dedicated to DIY as myself, the frame and stock assembly needs improvement. Repositioning an FC is one thing, Having to effectively reassemble the quad is another.
Pros:
-Its all there
-AIO FC
-AIO VTX
-once you fix it flies admirable
-Its all there
-AIO FC
-AIO VTX
-once you fix it flies admirable
Cons:
-Its a new model, with all the good and bad you can imagine
-has to be sanded and fixed to not sound like a small laundry machine
-Its a new model, with all the good and bad you can imagine
-has to be sanded and fixed to not sound like a small laundry machine
Other mods suggested at RC groups:
-Triblade props (Mine just arrived, they require trimming, so maybe after the holidays)
Boldclash triblades on amazon, rakonheli 40mm triblades
-7mm motors with kapton tape shims
-Other frames and motors entirely (the Mirco connectors on the FC are not compatible with the 6mm’s I have sadly.)
-move the stock motors up in the housings to prevent the prop pinging the duct. (I found sanding the ducts resolved most of this)
-Epoxy the programming port to the board to prevent it detaching
Boldclash triblades on amazon, rakonheli 40mm triblades
-7mm motors with kapton tape shims
-Other frames and motors entirely (the Mirco connectors on the FC are not compatible with the 6mm’s I have sadly.)
-move the stock motors up in the housings to prevent the prop pinging the duct. (I found sanding the ducts resolved most of this)
-Epoxy the programming port to the board to prevent it detaching
* I personally had no luck binding my 4-in-1 multi-protocol module to the drone, further investigation needed.
** I learned a valuable about lesson about FLYSky’s AFHDS and AFHDS 2A; namely AFHDS 2A is not backwards compatible to AFHDS. Please note: if purchasing a transmitter you will want to avoid the FS-i6s as it is not an AFHDS. The Flysky solution you are looking for is the FS-i6 or FS-i6x which are both AFHDS/AFHDS 2A radios, more in a later post on entry level radios and what you get out of them.
#eachine #fpvracing #turbineqx70 #drones
Advertisements